“The Journey”

 

A young woman’s account of her “Journey” to Seigler Springs

Author: unknown Pictures provided by Sylvies “Fashions Head – to – Toe”

 

We leave San Francisco early in the morning and take the ferry-boat to Vallejo.  It is by far the most pleasant part of our journey.  At Vallejo we catch the train and journey more or less northward to Calistoga. Train travel leaves much to be desired.  If we open the window cinders blow in and if we leave it closed the air becomes appallingly close.  There is a group of men in one corner playing cards and occasionally making the spittoons ring with their wads of tobacco.  When the porter comes through with a basket of refreshments that may be purchased they practically clean him out of the miniature whiskey bottles.  By the time we reach Calistoga they are quite tipsy.  Aunt Hester says they should all be thrashed.

 

          The stage is waiting for us in the little town of Calistoga.  It is 16 feet long and 12 feet high, so covered with dust that one cannot tell if it has been painted or left with varnish over the original wood.  The rear wheels are 6 feet high and tower over our skinny driver; the front wheels are smaller being only around 4 feet in diameter.  There are three span of horses.

 

We board the stage while the driver and his helper store our luggage in the “boot”.  Our round trip fare has cost us each $7.00.  Travel has become simply shocking.  Dear knows where it will end!

 

The driver climbs on board and the ladies all adjust their dusters.  The passengers brace themselves.  “Gee-haw!” the driver shouts and the stage lurches forward, throwing us all into each others laps.

 

The road is narrow and winding, twisting torturously up the narrow mountain gorges and down the steep canyons.  Dust boils up around the stage.  Its leather thongs, which are its only springs, do their best, but we bounce at every chuckhole and occasionally fly upward to bump our heads on the roof when the big wheels strike a “hard-head”.

 

There are times when the wheels of the coach go dangerously near to the edge of a cliff and the whole body sways so as to give the impression we are sure to go over.  Coming around a narrow curve we almost collide with a buggy drawn by a single horse.  It is such a close call that the buggy is forced to drive so that the wheel is partially up the side of the cliff.  His horse slips and goes down, entangled in the reins.

 

For a few moments the driver of the stage and the owner of the buggy shout at each other and it looks as though violence is eminent, but then they help the horse to its feet, untangled the reins, agree that the road here-about is murderous, but they wouldn’t live in the city if it was give to them, and we are once again on our way.

 

One of the gentlemen passengers explains that we must not be concerned for this is one of the best drivers on the route and one of the most experienced teams.  The two rear animals are chosen for their size, being larger than the ones in front.  On sharp turns the driver allows the horses to deal with the situation and the leaders pick up speed, swinging out, while the wheelers hold back just enough to keep the stage under control.

 

Be that as it may, Aunt Hester has become ill with motion sickness and must take a sip from the medicine bottle she carries in her handbag.

 

We are going almost 6 miles an hour and making excellent time.  Occasionally the driver pulls up and the ladies “go pick wildflowers” and the gentlemen “go shoot rabbits”.  There is a water bag on the coach from which we all take a drink.

 

As we jostle along the coach picks up additional passengers.  By the time we reach Seigler Springs they will be standing on the boards and clinging to whatever they can find to hold to.  One of the new fellows is a common sort who smokes terrible smelling cigars and takes little nips from the flask he carries in his pocket.

 

The biggest event of his life seems to have been the visit of Ulysses S. Grant to San Francisco in 1879, that and a recent visit to a Chinese opium den which he describes over and over in detail; as though someone were begging him do so.

 

Aunt Hester has all but finished her bottle of medicine and is becoming quite jolly.  The rest of us are drooping with weariness.  If the women are slightly more protected from bumps and bruises by their numerous petticoats and heavy skirts, they are also much hotter and the stays of their corsets are miserable to bounce around in.

 

It has grown dark and the oil lights on either side of the stage have been lit.  Fortunately the horses know the road for such dim lights could scarcely serve to guide them.  We cannot see them at all for the air is cold and the canvas has been fastened over the windows…And now at last, we are at Seigler Springs.  In the darkness we can see little but the outline of evergreen trees against the sky and a wide veranda lit by hanging lanterns.

 

The proprietor comes out to greet us and we enter a spacious lobby.  There is a stone fire-place at one side with a small fire burning.  We register at the desk and then follow a maid carrying an oil lamp up the stairs.  There is a long narrow hall with many doors leading off into all directions.

 

          The rooms are nicely furnished with heavy velvet drapes, solid wood furniture beautifully carved and thick rugs.  The maid puts our dusty outer garments on a dustsheet and carries them away to the back of the building where they will be shaken.  She returns with pitchers of warm water.  Each room has its own commode, so it is possible to wash up in privacy.  Some of the gentlemen have gone downstairs for a night-cap, but the ladies find it enough to remove their high-button shoes and corsets and get into bed.

 

          After the night air the rooms seem rather warm and close, but, of course, no-one opens the windows.  It is a well established scientific fact that night air is harmful to the lungs.  We turn over and go to sleep.

 

 

Created March 1, 2002

Updated constantly © March 1, 2002- www.middletownca.com

 


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